6/16/24

At the Bar: A Special Father's Day Old Fashioned Episode

The Old-Fashioned

The Old-Fashioned cocktail is a cornerstone of American cocktail culture, embodying the essence of simplicity and elegance. This storied drink has evolved over two centuries, adapting to changing tastes and trends. This Father’s Day Stave & Slide goes to where it all began, the OG of cocktails, the Grand ”Daddy” of them all. Join us as we journey into the rich history of the Old-Fashioned, from its earliest mention in the 1806 definition of “cocktail”; prescribing its basic formula to its place in the modern craft cocktail renaissance. The Old-Fashioned, the official drink for Dads!

The First Reference to “Cocktail” (1806)

The first known reference to the word “cocktail”; appeared in an 1806 edition of “The Balance and Columbian Repository” a Hudson, New York newspaper. In response to a reader’s inquiry about the term, the editor defined a cocktail as:

“Cock-tail, then is a stimulating liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water and bitters. It is vulgarly called a bittered sling, and is supposed to be an excellent electioneering potion in as much as it renders the heart stout and bold, at the same time that it fuddles the head. It is said also, to be of great use to a democratic candidate: because, a person having swallowed a glass of it, is ready to swallow anything else.”

- Editor, The Balance and Columbian Repository, 05/13/1806 

This definition laid the foundation for what would become the classic cocktail formula, emphasizing the balance of spirit, sweetness, dilution, and bitterness. The first printed recipe for a cocktail containing whiskey comes in the first printed cocktail book in 1862, Bartenders Guide: How to Mix Drinks, or the Bon Vivant’s Companion by Jerry Thomas, the Father of American Mixology. In it he provides a recipe for a Whiskey Cocktail which would ultimately become the precursor to the Old-Fashioned.

Jerry Thomas’ Whiskey Cocktail

 3 - 4 dashes gum syrup *

 2 dashes bitters (Boker’s) **

 1 wineglass of whiskey ***

Directions

Fill one-third full of fine ice; shake and strain in a fancy red wineglass. Put in a piece of twisted lemon peel in the glass and serve.

*Gum syrup was a popular 19 century ingredient utilizing gum arabic and sugar however it largely disappeared during prohibition. Several brands have begun producing it such as Liber & Co. Substitute ¼ oz of simple syrup if you don’t have gum.

**Boker’s was a brand of bitters popular during Jerry Thomas’ time and was used in many cocktails in his Bartender’s Guide however the bitters disappeared during prohibition. Fee Bros. Cardamom (Bokers style), Dr. Adam Elmegirab’s Boker’s Bitters, and the Bitter Truth’s Bogart’s Bitters all have recreated their version available on Amazon. Substitute Angostura if you don’t have one of the modern versions.

***1 wineglass is equivalent to 2 ounces

The “Improved Whiskey Cocktail” and Birth of the “Old-Fashioned Whiskey Cocktail”

Throughout the 19th century, the basic cocktail formula evolved. As new liqueurs made their way to the United States from Europe bartenders experimented with different ingredients, leading to the creation of what would be known as the “Improved Whiskey Cocktail”. This variation included the addition of absinthe, Chartreuse, maraschino, curacao, or other flavoring agents. While some of these variations or riffs on the whiskey cocktail may have been considered improvements (some are quite good), not everyone wanted their whiskey drinks tinkered with. As cocktail culture advanced, many patrons began to crave the simplicity of the original.

In the late 19th century, the term “Old-Fashioned Whiskey Cocktail” began to be used to describe a return to the simpler style of whiskey drink. Imbibers were looking to get back to basics and ditch the “improvements” returning to the original formula as defined in 1806. Bar patrons would order their Whiskey Cocktail the “Old-Fashioned” way or ask for an “Old-Fashioned Whiskey Cocktail”. Eventually the drink just became known as The Old-Fashioned indicating a cocktail which consisted of bourbon or rye whiskey, sugar, water/ice, bitters, and a twist of citrus peel. Thus, the Old-Fashioned as we know and call it was born but it would have to go through some growing pains before it would ultimately become what it has today.

Old-Fashioned Whiskey Cocktail

 2 oz bourbon

 1 tsp Bar Sugar

 3 dashes Angostura bitters

 1 tsp water

 Garnish: orange peel

Directions

 Add the sugar and bitters to a double old-fashioned glass, add the water and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add a large ice cube, add bourbon and stir. Express the oils of an orange peel over the glass, rub around the rim and drop in the glass.

Post-Prohibition Era

The Prohibition era (1920-1933) disrupted the American cocktail landscape. With the production and sale of alcohol outlawed, many bartenders left the U.S. for Europe and the quality of available spirits plummeted, and many classic cocktail traditions and methodologies were lost or disregarded. To mask the harsh flavors of bootlegged liquor, bartenders added more fruit, sugar, and soda water to cocktails. This trend continued after Prohibition ended, leading to a version of the Old-Fashioned that included more muddled fruit and club soda.

Despite these changes, the core ingredients remained the same: whiskey, sugar, bitters, and water. However, the traditional simplicity of the Old-Fashioned was lost amid these embellishments.

Mid-Century Popularity

In the mid-20th century, the Old-Fashioned enjoyed renewed popularity and was frequently featured in movies and TV shows. This period saw a resurgence of interest in classic cocktails, and entertaining in the home where cocktail hour became solidified in American culture with the Old-Fashioned being a staple at bars, restaurants, supper clubs, and home bars. The 1950s and 1960s solidified the Old-Fashioned's status as a go-to cocktail for those seeking a refined drinking experience. However, the drink’s preparation varied widely, with many recipes incorporating muddled maraschino cherries, orange slices, and even pineapple and copious amounts of soda water.

During this time, the Old-Fashioned became an emblem of sophistication and professional success, especially among the executives of Madison Avenue. This period, marked by the booming advertising industry, saw high-powered businessmen frequently indulging in this classic drink, both in their offices and in the upscale bars they frequented. The Old-Fashioned's resurgence was fueled by its portrayal as a stylish and timeless choice, embodying the era’s preference for simplicity and elegance. The drink became a staple for these executives, symbolizing their refined taste and the culture of power and glamour that defined mid-century corporate America. The iconic status of the Old-Fashioned during this time was later immortalized in popular culture, particularly in the television series Mad Men where characters like Don Draper made the cocktail synonymous with the allure and mystique of Madison Avenue. In the first episode of AMC’s hit series one of the first lines we hear from Don Draper is “Do this again”, when ordering another Old-Fashioned, setting the stage for the frequent pairing between leading man and leading cocktail. The recipe below is the way we see Don make his favorite drink personally in Season 3 Episode 3 when he hops behind the bar at a private club where there is no bartender and no bourbon.

The Don Draper Old-Fashioned

 2 oz Rye Whiskey (Old Overholt)

 4 dashes Angostura bitters

 1 maraschino cherry

 1 demerara sugar cube

 Soda water

 Garnish: orange slice

Directions

 Add sugar cube to double old-fashioned glass and soak with bitters. Add cherry and muddle. In a separate mixing glass add ice, whiskey and 1 ounce of soda and mix well. Pour entire mixture into rocks glass and garnish with orange slice.

The Modern Craft Cocktail Renaissance

The mid 1990’s to early 2000s marked the beginning of the modern craft cocktail renaissance. This movement saw bartenders and enthusiasts seeking to revive classic cocktails in their original forms, emphasizing high-quality ingredients and traditional techniques and transitioning from the over sweetened disco drinks of the 70’s and 80’s. The Old-Fashioned, which at the time was viewed as “your Grandfather’s drink” was at the forefront of this revival. This movement being led by visionaries such as Dale DeGroff of the Rainbow Room, Pegu Club’s Audrey Saunders, David Kaplan & Ravi DeRossi of Death & Co., Employees Only’s Dushan Zaric, Jim Meehan and Milk & Honey’s Sasha Petraske among others.

Bartenders returned to the original recipe, focusing on the quality of the whiskey, the balance of sweetness and bitterness, and the importance of proper dilution. The modern Old-Fashioned features a sugar cube or simple syrup, Angostura bitters, a robust bourbon or rye, twist of citrus peel, and single large ice cube to control dilution. If a cherry is used as an accompanying garnish the only one typically permitted is a luxardo maraschino. The craft cocktail movement also brought innovations, with variations using different spirits, bitters, and sweeteners, but always respecting the fundamental principles of the Old-Fashioned employing the basic formula as prescribed in 1806 staying true to the drink’s roots. The Old-Fashioned cocktail is more than just a drink; it is a testament to the evolution of American cocktail culture. The Old-Fashioned is once again going through a kind of “Improved Whiskey Cocktail” phase or “Modern Old-Fashioned” where mixologists are using seasonal ingredients to make fall flavored Old-Fashioneds or fat washed bourbon Old-Fashioneds or substituting Mezcal and Tequila for the bourbon as in the “Oaxaca Old Fashioned”. As mixologists continue to experiment with new flavors and combinations there will still be those who want the original as they did in the late 1800’s…an Old-Fashioned Whiskey Cocktail! To that we say cheers. Here’s Stave & Slide’s version. Happy Father’s Day.

Stave & Slide Old-Fashioned

 2.5 oz bourbon (Buffalo Trace)

 ¼ oz Rich Demera Simple Syrup

 2 Dashes Angostura Bitters

 2 Dashes Reagans Orange Bitters

 Garnish Orange Peel

Directions

 Add syrup and bitters and bourbon to mixing glass, add ice  Mix for 25-30 seconds for proper dilution. Add large clear ice rock to double old-fashioned glass.Strain into glass over ice. Express oils from orange peel over drink and rub around rim and drop into glass for garnish.

Cigar Pairing: The My Father Flor de Las Antillas

The My Father Flor de Las Antillas is a superb offering from the renowned Garcia family, known for producing high-quality cigars. This blend of Nicaraguan binder and filler tobaccos nestled in a Sun Grown Nicaraguan wrapper has garnered significant acclaim, including the prestigious title of Cigar Aficionado’s #1 Cigar of the Year in 2012 earning a 96-point rating. Flor de Las Antillas which means “Flower of the Antilles”, is a reference to the Garcia’s family native of Cuba where they began their cigar making tradition generations ago. What better cigar to pair with our Stave & Slide Old-Fashioned for Father’s Day than this award-winning cigar from legendary father-and- son cigar makers Pepin and Jaime Garcia.

Flavor Profile

The Flor de Las Antillas delivers a rich and balanced flavor profile that begins with a smooth introduction of creamy cedar and subtle spices. As you progress through the first third, notes of nutmeg and white pepper emerge, adding complexity and depth to the experience. Midway through, the flavors evolve, revealing hints of cocoa, sweet leather, and a touch of floral essence, which are complemented by an underlying earthy sweetness. The final third intensifies slightly, with the spice becoming more pronounced, yet never overpowering the blend of flavors that define this cigar.

Burn and Draw

The construction of the Flor de Las Antillas is impeccable, as expected from My Father Cigars. The cigar features a beautifully crafted box-pressed shape that not only looks elegant but also enhances the smoking experience. The burn is consistently even, producing a solid ash that holds well throughout the smoke. The draw is perfect, providing just the right amount of resistance to savor the nuanced flavors without any struggle. There are no issues with uneven burning or relighting, making for a smooth and enjoyable experience from start to finish.

Overall Experience

The My Father Flor de Las Antillas offers a luxurious and memorable smoking experience. Its medium to full-bodied profile makes it approachable for a wide range of smokers, from those just venturing into more robust cigars to seasoned aficionados.

The elegant presentation, with its intricate band and flawless construction, sets the stage for a truly enjoyable smoke. This blend embodies the craftsmanship and dedication of the Garcia family, making it a standout in their impressive portfolio and a must-try for any cigar enthusiast. This cigar pairs perfectly with an Old-Fashioned and is sure to enhance your Father’s Day celebration.

Cheers from Stave & Slide!

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